Beautiful Rabaul, half buried during the 1994 volcanic eruptions, is re-emerging as a tourist destination with a difference. There are few places where the dramatic consequences of the contrasting moods of nature can be experienced so intimately.
The drive from the airport, now located at Tokua about an hour from Rabaul, is along a narrow road winding its way around the glittering waters of the Gazelle Peninsula. Through the coconut trees villages of thatched huts surrounded by colourful flowerbeds and tropical fruit trees look out over calm waters. The Tolai children with their bleached hair and wide smiles stop their play to wave at passing traffic.
Across the Harbour is Tavurvur, bellowing great clouds of black-ash filled smoke, some days grumbling, other days bellowing. From this warm tropical lushness enter the now lunar-like landscape at the base of the volcano, Vulcan. Further on, pass through untouched suburban streets before turning into the main street of Mango Avenue. Amidst the tangled mass of rubble and ruins covered in layers of muddy volcanic ash, three former resort hotels have been resurrected and stand like oases amidst the desolation to welcome the awe-struck visitor.
The history of Rabaul is one of wreckage and regrowth. Modern historians will find a treasure trove of World War 2 relics, tunnels and caverns to explore within driving distance of Rabaul. Close to the now thriving centre of Kokopo, are the remnants of Gunantambu mansion, built in the 1880's by the legendary "Queen Emma".
War wrecks also litter the surrounding reefs. The excellent visibility makes this an exciting dive spot all year round. Dive trips, day tours as well as charter boats for fishing can be organised through any of the hotels.
Out of Rabaul, along the north coast road to Kabakada is the Kulau Lodge. Located on the beach front, it is built in traditional style of woven kunai grass. It is surrounded by gardens and the large, airy restaurant provides a relaxing area to enjoy the magnificent views across the sea.
Forty five minutes by boat from Kokopo are the Duke of York Islands offering sport diving, snorkelling and picnics under the coconut trees. The lagoons around this historical group of islands provide all-weather canoeing, wind surfing and skiing and are a haven for visiting yachts.
There are daily Air Niugini flights to Rabaul.
Map of East New Britain
